Review of Kashiwaya — Three-Star Epicure

On an unassuming corner of a quiet Osaka suburb, you’d be excused for walking right by Kashiwaya and not knowing that one of the best restaurants in the world lay behind this entrance. Tucked away in its own private corner, this intimate, immaculately manicured, friendly, and sincere restaurant absolutely knocked it out of the park. I dream about when I will get to return, end of story. For an utterly perfect execution of fine private kaiseki (tea-ceremony) style dining, this is about as good as it gets- it is one of the best in Japan.

SUITO, JAPAN (NEAR OSAKA), JULY 2017

SERVICE: 9.5/10

FOOD: 9.0/10

PRICE PAID: $170PP (INCL. TEA, CHAMPAGNE APERITIF,SAKE, PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 9.5/10

FINAL SCORE: 9.5/10

Here's the chef (left) in a not-uncomfortable-at-all photo

Hideaki Matsuo is the second-generation owner/chef, and like many Kaiseki-style venues, takes inspiration from the tea ceremony in Kyoto. The items on the menu are all classical dishes with seasonal splashes; for example, during my first visit in July of 2017, seasonal fish like Sea Eel (“Hamo”) abounded in several creative presentations, all thoroughly explained.

Designed in the “Sukiya” style, Japan’s traditional architecture for tea ceremonies that emphasizes natural materials, the space could not be more serene. The style is exemplified in the Fusuma sliding doors, shoji paper screens, tatami mats, and a large reception room.

Every immaculate surface of the dining room is clean, polished, and in perfectly straight lines. The tatami mats are soft and comfortable to sit on, and the sheer black table is only a few inches above floor level.

First Sip: Buckwheat Tea with Seaweed, 9/10

First sip is a super rich, truly minimalist serving of buckwheat tea with seaweed. The seaweed is thick and green; almost as chewy as gum. Nice and savory; a pleasant greeting. 9/10.

With a generous portioning of sliced starfruit that represent the Milky Way, this dish is accompanied by a lovely story about making a wish during a bamboo paper ceremony. Inside is Akagai (“Ark shell claim”) which is smoky, with a smooth and not overly-firm texture, and very fresh. In the corner is a gelatin "Tapestry" of spiraled carrots and radish, cherry, tiger shrimp, and vegetables, all with wonderful, fresh textures and flavors. The tiger shrimp especially are crunchy-fresh. 9/10.

The next course is served in custom-made silver bamboo leaves, representing leaves floating down the river. In the dish on the left, octopus with fresh vegetables, with deep fried veggies on the right. The octopus has an interesting, fresh-tuna-like flavor that together with the rich sesame paste tastes very similar to peanut butter. On the right, an especially unique eggplant has a very sweet flavor, and a juicy-as-a-peach texture. Not often do I experience a vegetable I’ve never seen before. 9/10.

Next up, a soup of Hamo in a gorgeous glossy-black ceramic bowl. The sea eel is presented with red plum sauce, tofu with gold flakes, Yuzu citrus, and winter melon skin for texture. The rich sea eel is paralleled with the richness of the tofu, and the warm salty broth is a near-perfect counterpoint. One of the coziest seafood soups I have ever enjoyed. 10/10.

Continuing the Conger Eel theme; “Hamo Five Ways” - raw, boiled, with bitter leaf, ceviche-style with lime, and roasted. The raw Hamo has the texture of Play-Doh but a delightfully fresh flavor (8/10), and the boiled eel is a perfect pairing to the ball of red bean paste (8/10. The dish with bitter leaf is the most “three-dimensional,” with a lovely vegetal/herbal note from the leaf (9/10). The ceviche bite is zesty and citrusy, and last but not least the roasted fish has lovely toasted flavors that almost resemble marshmallow. It is, however, a touch overshadowed by the spicy rich prawn sauce (7/10). The dish does a very effective job of showcasing the versatility of the fish! 8/10 overall.

Moving on to a dish of baked Hamo with rich, lively flavors of Japanese yam together with some crunchy shoots. Simple, but elegant. 8/10.

As a palate cleanser, a gelatinous dish of tomato jelly. Rich like a clear tomato soup, but raw like a tomato at the same time. The tiny micro-tomatoes pop open like extra-fresh grapes when you bite down, and some small bites of crunchy cucumber add texture. 10/10.

Next, a dish of scallop with white and green cucumbers. The broth is more of a sauce - very thick, with a zesty lemony and citrus flavor. The white cucumbers have extremely soft texture almost like a ripe melon or a honeydew - not something I’ve had before. The scallop is neutral and fresh, and makes your teeth click as you eat. Noticeable but not overdone ginger. 9/10.

As we prepare for the final few bites, some buckwheat tea, which smells and tastes exactly like Honey Nut Cheerios. 8/10.

Finally, on to the last of the savory courses- hamo sushi, served alongside some very-salty Black miso soup. The hamo has been fried in oil to achieve a perfect tempura consistency- the decadent oily crust falls apart with almost the same texture as the rice. The soup is so savory it makes my mouth water, and it is the literally the perfect accompaniment. 9/10.

The first dessert is served - “Cherries,” with some cream and fruit. Thoughtfully, the plate under the bowl matches the colors of the cherries more or less exactly, one of a million small details that really define this restaurant and this meal. The fruit is bright and fresh and pairs perfectly with the cold cream. 9/10.

And finally - the last dessert: brown sugar gel with gold- meant to emulate “the Milky Way night sky.”

Cold as ice cream and shockingly sugary. The flavors remind me of Jell-O made from molasses. 8/10.

Last but not least, an absolutely perfect bowl of hand-made matcha, and a last glass of brown tea. The matcha tastes like rich wheatgrass, and the smokey flavors of the buckwheat tea are, again, just like the world’s best bowl of Cheerios. 10/10.

Japan- Kashiwaya- Three Stars in 2019